When I was a grom, Gotcha ran their "IF YOU DON'T SURF, DON'T START" ad campaign. Lost recently re-ran the same exact campaign, but 20 years on, it comes across as ironic nostalgia for an era when everyone and their fat sister didn't surf already.
Consider, for instance, this quote from 90s Santa Cruz pro Adam Replogle, interviewed on PostSurf reader :
"When I think of the future of the surf industry I just go look at the line up on a flat day and it gives me hope for the future. Lately, the water has been packed. Not just local contractors out of work but a new group of beginners in their 40’s and 50’s. Tons of them... Hopefully, one day when the surfing economy ramps back up, surfing will have some new members to help support the industry, but for now we just need to be stoked we live in Santa Cruz.”
Seriously, dude? How desperate have things become when a pro from Santa Cruz, perhaps the most hostile place on earth, sees hordes of maggots infesting his lineups, and it gives him "hope for the future?"
I thought about all this on my recent flight home from the heartland of America. I knew I was in for it the second these two guys sat down: The frosted blond tips, the manicured faux-casual Miami Vice stubble beards, the ironed jeans, leather loafers, and tucked in Gap button-ups. These were former frat boys, turned Dallas finance metro-sexuals, and they were talking about the market in loud voices.
They seemed to work together, and the older and more barbeque-heavy of the two led the way in the conversation.
“I did everything right and still I lost 73% this year,” he told his young apprentice, with the cavalier nonchalance of the newly rich, tossing off the loss the way you describe losing in blackjack in Vegas; as if pretending you were in on the joke might change the outcome.
“They taught us to put our money in IRAs but they didn’t say nothing about managing it,” his young colleuge agreed.
I tuned most of it out. Until the older one said this:
“You know, I’m thinking of quitting finance altogether. Opening up a surf shop in California.”
“Yes! I’ve always thought I should surf," the younger Hanson-reject noted. “People already tell me I look like a surfer.”
“Well you should. Start somewhere warm. But you’re not ready for the North Shore - North Shore of Oahu that is - yet. Go to maybe South Shore... Puerto Rico. That would be a good place to start.”
At that point I put in my headphones, turned away, and prayed for the future of surfing.
I started surfing in Santa Cruz in the early 70s. I remember the Lane, Hook, 4Mile, etc all being crowded.
I got to surf HI a few times as well, and I distinctly remember Sunset being crowded.
I’m a UCSB alumnus (’79). A friend & I shared an old Ranch boat; I remember Cojo, R&Ls, Drakes, El Cap, Campus Pt & Rincon all being crowded.
Made my first trip (one of many other trips over 25 years) to Baja around the same time. I remember K38 with 50 guys out and even more at San Miguel.
I worked in LA in the 80s & 90s. I remember Malibu, El Porto, PV, etc all being crowded. (Btw, Sarlo ripped, and still rips. Never seen a guy go so fast and literally force a [large] wave back on itself from a lip smash.)
I now live, work & surf in OC. I don’t recall the current crowd situation at HB, Trestles, Sano, Cardiff & Swamis any different than over the last 30-35 years.
Dude, you got yourself some leafy weed. bummer!
Nice post…..even nicer bag of ganja creeping into the bottom left side of the picture. Burn it up LS!
Repogle is taking the “Keep Santa Cruz Weird” idea to a whole nother level. Is surf industry brainwashing an accepted disorder these days? I recommend he takes a nice snap from some LS’ personal stash and remembers what it is like to be true SC local and not just another “industry guy”.
By the way, If any of you kooks from Los Gatos/San Jose are reading this blog, please remember for every guy like Repogle we have ten guys like Flea. Beat it!
That looks like outdoor from Bo.
I can just picture what a group of ten Flea’s looks like… twelve teeth between them and all in as educated as Mark. God Bless the Westside!
Stu…you couldn’t be more spot on. LOl!
who pulled the curtain?
even Gerry Lopez played the role of an enforcerless enforcer where the hero of the film was some kid from AZ.
shortly after, he packed it in to inland Oregon.
Ive also heard from other old staunches that things were really crowded in the 70’s. Several time Ive heard the ‘you think this is bad, you should a seen…’ such and such. Apparently the hook was the spot in SC back then and you had to be in to surf it. Wonder if that little Shannon guy still trying to be the enforcer there
The word is out.
The Search will take place here….
Wave House Sentosa – Opening October 2009
The fourth island in the Wave House archipelago is actually an island – just south of Singapore. For centuries it was known as Pulau Blakang Mati – which meant “death from behind.” Not a good name for an island designed to accommodate tourists, so in 1972 the name was changed to Sentosa: which means “peace in tranquility” in Malay.
Good call, although the peace and tranquility of this island of fun will be rattled a bit when Wave House Sentosa opens in October and gets cranked to 11. Wave House Sentosa will feature a FlowBarrel® left and a double FlowRider® at the center of a music, entertainment and retail complex to a place that has been blessed by nature: Beautiful beaches, tropical sun, palm trees, spectacular sunsets and azure water. All that was missing was waves, but the people of Singapore are in for a treat when they get a taste of the “future of nature.”
SantaCruzn is Stu. I knew it before SantaCruzn even replied to Stu’s comment on SantaCruzn’s first comment on Lewis’s post.
I am confused about Santa Cruz localism. Flea’s dad grew up over on the Peninsula. How many consecutive years of living in S.C. does it take before you are forgiven your original home of record.
Doug Haut is from Los Altos. Is he still a “valley” after 35 years of owning a surf shop that is 400 yards from the peak at Stockton Ave?
Wingnut is from Orange County and originally moved to S.C. to attend college. Will he always be a slug?
Is there a rulebook we can refer to on this subject?
Benign Canine is a weekend fuck off who surfs historically crowded lineups. The true litmus is the nooks and crannies that now feature “surf class’ and child care ( surf schools ). A time lapse photo of Silver Strand would have that Indian crying by a polluted river campaign all warmed up and ready to air.
A better thread would be to scrutinize the latest generation of parent. You know, my child is my best friend and I live through their every waking moment. Not one little league practice shall I miss and I can’t wait until johnny can stand up, then it’s 12 hour days at River Jetties for the Volcom series!….assuming he wins…..
You see them everywhere, groms misbehaving while Dad beams….. He can’t surf worth shit anymore, the bank stole his testacles and there’s no way he’s going to hold his kid’s responsible for anything, let alone surf ettiquette. That is the future, massive population explosion without fundamental courtesy and no locals who can “instill” the code. A letigious society steamrolling into chaos.
As for morons on flights, I sat next to a Mc Donalds executive flying home from “university” in Chicago. “I heard you make your money on fries and cola”?… my only question. “We don’t give a shit about food, we are a real estate company” he boasted. “Real Estate”? I innocently responded. His answer lasted the rest of the flight and I deboarded in shock with one last bit of advice from drunk exec….. ” You can’t surf forever, time to “get real” kid ( the guy was my age) and stop spending your time scouring third world countries….” ” Oh, like Australia?”…. “Yeah, that place was fucking nothing until we staked our claim”.
The only thing Benign Canine was right about is Sarlo. Repogle is smoking crack and Ocean Beach was empty not long ago. Even the diva of south county, Lowers was nearly empty until Flame decided to follow Christian around like a groupie and doco functional airs. That summer on Surfing’s cover fucked the place and Nike/Boost have finsihed her off.
Sincerely, Bitter and Jaded and searching for a soft place to land……
I agree w/ b9k9 in that its always been crowded. no matter what. You catch some rare uncrowded, whether at home or somewhere else, and its still like that now.
Pass the reefer over here…… do you really feel threatened by 40, 50 year old metrosexual beginners Lewis? These wanna-bees will never be snaking the inside at 8ft Backdoor. Groms are the future, and it’s looking scarily bright.
definitely outdoor…
neither of you fools will be doing anything at backdoor
definetly outdoor…..yet really good, pure outdoor. A little leafy green, yet sticky and chystally……..nice
things are different now in Santa Cruz. Back when i was learning to surf, there was a tight crew of locals regulating and enforcing the lineup. Nowadays, enforcement can mean jail time, and as the lineups choked on themselves, the local boys lost interest in enforcement. Don’t get me wrong, there are places in SC that are still regulated to an extent, but no matter how much barking, pissing, and screaming we did, the kooks didn’t stop coming.
Thinking back, despite the dangers present in crowded lineups, being bitter that people are learning to surf is retarded. Just like anyone else, I hate surfing in crowds. It sucks. Especially with kooks. I just can’t see any realistic way of stopping it. Boycott surf media? Physically harm people? Fuck I’d be down for both if i knew they’d work. I can totally see both sides of the coin, however. And i think the same goes for Adam, despite what Samuels has taken from his statement.
Adam is one of the most respected surfer’s in SC. He was raised in an environment where outsiders got stabbed with surfboards and grommets got dunked and their wetsuits rinsed on the coldest days of the year. Nowadays, Adam is a father and up until recently owned a surfshop. The question I asked him was part of a bigger discussion regarding the economy and how it has affected his life. I think his answer reflects not a welcome sign for kooks, rather a respectable desire to work with what we have.
Adam’s no fool. He understands that surfing has indeed gone mainstream. That’s one of the reasons he invested in the surf industry in the first place. I think that for a person who has given so much of themselves to Santa Cruz surfing over the years to get enough back to support a family is quite reasonable.
I think that this is a great discussion. Do surfers have a right to protect their spots? The purity of the sport? Is it wrong for a surfer to try to make a living from surfing? I think the quote was taken out of context, and i’d hate to see anyone bag on Adam, as he’s truly an awesome guy and highly respected ambassador of Santa Cruz surfing.
“Don’t get me wrong, there are places in SC that are still regulated to an extent, but no matter how much barking, pissing, and screaming we did, the kooks didn’t stop coming.”
Wait a minute Nealdude, according to your profile, you are 23 years old or something…
How long have you been surfing, much less enforcing locations in Santa Cruz?
4 maybe 5 years? Just where are you doing your barking and pissing… I would like to now so I can come hear your bark and smell your piss. I will make a special trip! From Turkey!
yah i’ve been surfing since 1992, born and raised in the same house on Pleasure Point. I’d say i have been yelling at kooks since about ‘96 or so? I never claimed to be an enforcer either. My point was that we (the local surfing Community) couldn’t do much to stop the influx of outsiders and kooks. This isn’t supposed to be about me anyways.
Turkey ay? more like donkey. You must be a pretty “heavy local” if you wanna travel across the world to “hear my bark and smell my piss”. Maybe i should just shit on your face?
weed looks bammer lewis..might want to start checkin your sources.
If people who (really) surf created a no leash ethic, then crowds would thin a bit. Especially at more difficult waves.
Obviously, some waves, say, directly in front of rocks would still warrant leashes, but most seldom do.
More skilled and experienced surfers would be on the peak, while less skilled surfers would have to be on the shoulder so as to reduce their chances of a swim. How many times have you seen someone take off on a set, fall, reel in their board, and then catch another wave from the same set. Two waves from one set.
This can be done. As recently as the late 1990’s, some locales in San Diego had a strong no leash ethic. The locals at these locales have let it slide. They got old and lazy (different topic). But still, no leash is practically a hall pass to paddle around those who do.
Many people still surf without leashes at these places. If enough true surfers committed to doing likewise, then a disdain of the leash would take root.
My usual locale can still be fixed in this regard quite easily, but it would take a grass roots effort to remedy most spots.
Skill, knowledge, and comfort in the ocean would be the characteristics that determined where people surf. Do your part, start tomorrow.
Adam invested in a surfshop, had a child and decided that the “popularity” of the sport was a good thing, his financial necessity. Neal dude, your rationalization is generous towards that financial goal. It’s cool, sell out for Adam’s best interest. Thanks, Adam’s of the world.
Eric dreams of a day without leashes. How many people did you twitter today? The art of riding no longer includes finish. A loss your reminiscent generation hasn’t picked up on yet, not sexy enough.
That is all I wanted to no Nealdude, where you piss and shit and moan.
I think I would too if I had to surf and be tough Pleasure Point.
Thanks for your info!
PS I kinda dig your blog!
Donkey from Turkey
My “reminiscent generation”? Please explain, Myke.
In the past few years, the ’step into liquid generation’ has completely infiltrated my ‘local spot’, a shitty beachbreak locateed a block away from my office that i surf almost everyday. the locals don’t bother to surf much anymore unless it’s big, but where you used to see MAYBE 20 people out, you’ll witness over 100 people in the water on a typical sunday morning, mostly a bunch of flailing stiltwalkers, log spongers, and sweeper hopefulls. go figure.. the locals sit in the wings. not nearly as many fights these days.
I’ve been dealing with the enforcement of heavy locals for over 21 years, but always try to put on a good face…it usually pays off.
Very recently, I moved to the most localized surf town in SoCal. I’ve surfed dumpy warbley reef breaks with no one else out and still had my windows waxed, been told to beat it. but i approached the adversity with a good attitude, introduced myself, bought some rounds for the boys, had some boards repaired at the shop. now i’m counting on some of these heavies as friends.
get over it, or get into it…it’s up to you.
roll another one, just like the other one, you’ve been holding onto it… and i sure would like a wave.
“…introduced myself, bought some rounds for the boys (read swung from their balls), had some boards repaired at the shop. now i’m counting on some of these heavies (heavies?) as friends.
If you truly moved to this town “very recently”, then even after the pathetic round buying, they can’t be too heavy if you can call them friends.
thanks Turk man! sorry i resorted to negativity in my response to your post. You do, however, have a point. I am quite young to be speaking on a subject with such history. however, I cannnot escape the reality in which i was brought up. To tell you the truth, it’s frustrating to have gone through all the beatings and hazings as a grom, and not be able to enjoy the fruits of such tribulations. in the past, these measures were taken as rights of initiation and an introduction into the pecking order of the lineup. That pecking order has lost it’s significance over time. Many of the heavies are now in jail or rehab, or just plain missing. Many had kids and seltled down. The lineup is now a mess and the pissed off guys have lost interest. I don’t know what to say, Lewis Samuels. The weed is pretty strong up here these days, maybe that has something to do with it. Any suggestions on how we, SC surfer’s, can stem this influx of new surfer’s (besides Erik’s leash proposal, which is lame by the way), without going to jail or losing our job’s ?
Great post. There is a young yuppie transplant couple living in San Diego who learned to surf last summer and now they import cheap surfboards from China for a living. Their marketing has an icky Amway feel to it. All the newbies want to be in “the industry” in some form even if it is simulacra.
Glimmer of hope: I think the real young kids who are getting into surfing right now are going to completely reject and tear down all the Hollister selling of surf bullshit and reclaim surfing. Of course, then it will just start all over again.
See you bros on the other side of this Swine Flu thingy…
I remember the day Jeff Lansing died. PP was never the same. I sometimes wish the guys who used to heckle me at the spots I surf when I was a grom would re-appear but they wont.
You are right, you grow up dealing with a pecking order, and it sucks to watch guys try and skip right past that.
good knowledge Turk anyone down with the Lansings is down with me and the P PT B!
nealdude: check yourself…If you surfed at any spot in this town anytime except midday-midweek when everyone is at work, you would without a doubt be asked to leave the water. if you persisted by showing up again and someone recognized you, you should expect repurcussions in the form of ‘altered property’. my wife is from there and grew up hanging out with several of these guys. I consider myself in an extremely lucky position to slip into this closed community, so i’m playing it the only way i know how. the alternative is not being able to surf in my new hometown. my cousin-in law isn’t even allowed to surf at certain breaks and he is from there and has surfed his entire life.
If these guys aren’t heavy locals, i’d hate to see worse ones (think rocks raining from the cliffs). my wife opening a window for me into the toughest surf community around these parts and for that i am extremely grateful. i really don’t think that exhibiting some generosity by buying a few beers as a way of introducing myself to these people is pathetic. it’s smart, nealdude. but hey, you’re right, they aren’t my real friends yet, but they are currently being very civil towards me.
Nealdude, “Nealdude”? With a name like that, you have lost the right to call anything ‘lame’.
The leash idea isn’t to stem the influx of new surfers, it’s to establish a filtering process at the breaks that matter. You, apparently, are still scarred from that one time when your leash broke at Four Mile.
Consider:
-Spot X is a quality wave.
-Spot X has been infected with beginners, kooks, “rippers” (frothing developing surfers who can attempt, but often fail more difficult turns.)
-Spot X is also populated by highly skilled surfers, and/or experienced surfers, and/or very competent ‘locals’.
If the latter collection of surfers didn’t wear a leash, then the previous collection would become the outsiders. Eventually, Spot X would be known as that spot wear you shouldn’t wear a leash.
Even if the kooks, beginners, and rippers paddled out without their cord, they would limit themselves to the safety of the shoulder.
A hierarchy of sorts would establish among the capable as well. The steeper, hollower, and heavier waves would belong to those confident and skilled enough to both successfully catch and ride without falling.
I have seen this ethic/culture in effect. It works. The leash wearers are shunned.
Of course, all beginner waves are a lost cause. But given that I like to assume that readers (at least commentators) of this site a competent enough surfers, then at your town’s Spot Xs, this can happen.
Given your reaction, Nealdude, I would assume your nervousness in the ocean sans cord and lack of ability to keep your board with your person sans cord relegates you to the group that would have to wave Spot X “goodbye” for the comfort of the bunny slopes.
ummm Bil-O Bil O, I never even responded to any of your posts
Erik- I like your idea, I just don’t see any way to realistically enforce or implent such a system at this point.
sorry, that was for erik, not neal-dude.
been living in the same town with formerly aggressive, but increasingly dissilussioned local crew for 11 years. it took at least 6 years to get accepted. i still work in the same town and usually surf here, but just moved about 6 months ago to the new house with the local heavies.
i surf the shitty beach break w/o a string, but def. need to one in front of the rocks. or i could not use one and make even better friends with the ding repair guy at the shop.
i would imaging that kooks at your propsed spot x would start trying to be like the cool guys and surf without leashes…boards flying all over the place. i guess it would keep em swimming most of the time…
peace out
It could work at a place like Stockton Ave.
Those who can make the drop, pull in, and exit successfully don’t really need their leash. These same people, when they don’t make the barrel, know how to push through keeping their board. And these same people are the ones who would like to see less crowds, kooks, and blown waves.
It starts with those higher in the pecking order. They start to unvelcro, the lower caste regulars follow. Soon some fellows come of with a cord, and they get heckled in. Leashless culture established.
Some boards will get damaged on the rocks/cliffs, but that risk is part of what keeps those expecting definite damage away. Like I said, it can’t work at all spots, but that is one Santa Cruz example.
surfing is way too cool for me nowadays. I hate it. I hope it goes through a recession like vert skateboarding did before the xgames where everyone just stopped, cause you know kala would turn out like mark “gator” rogowski.
nealdude, you don’t have a bright future. Why not go back to school? Learn to write. The beatings and hazings you suffered as a grom were nothing to do with being a grom. Comprende?
4 mile and the 4 mile crew are the biggest bunch of tranny maggots there are. Live in San Jose stink eye like they live in SC. They can’t surf either. Kooks I tell yah.
Surfing is gonna get localized again. All the beavertail bandits are fed up with with the old locals at there new spot. Watch out I here they are putting razor blades on the back of there beavertails. There gonna slash you while they do the stinkbug soul arch on a twinnie.
I fuckin run Santa Cruz. When I paddle out people get out of the water and show respect.
Localism is no different than any other form of exclusion. The KKK, Black Panthers, Taliban, Bloods & Crips, Fascism, and all the other “jisms” out there. This is just a smaller version of the Balkan wars. Instead of stupid religious implications, we have stupid surf spot and wave implications. In the end, Localism is just another bunch of small minded, insecure people whose minds still struggle with stepping outside of their own caves. These mütherfückérs would still be without fire and fucking their sisters if left to their own devices.
But, “we were here first, Blasphemy.” No you weren’t bitch! Who was there when you were still sookling your mammies udders at the tender age of nine? Who was there when your pappy was tripping out on smack in the jungles of Vietnam? Who was there when grandpaw was groping every available balloon knot in his barnyard? Fuck you and that retarded argument.
And most importantly, who gives a shit? Sometimes things just run their course. The civil rights movement ended a lot of bigotry in many parts of the world; it’s just that some of the smaller pockets of society, like surfing, are just now feeling those repercussions. So, reality smacked you in the face. Now take it like a man, or put on your hood and start burning crosses on the infidel’s front lawns until you’ve devolved into the primordial soup from whence you really came.
I for one, will just sit back with my popcorn and watch the show.
Seppo Wankers. I’m still mad at Lost for not making me Jesus in the Lost Supper ad.
The real fuckery stem from surf schools. They teach you how to catch waves but not how to surf. There is an etiquette to be followed when riding waves. More spots need to post the “10 commandments of Surfing”, so more people understand and eventually get it. I remember a sign posted in the parking lot at Bells that demonstrated this perfectly.
Blashphemy, are you OK?
Worried about you Bro.
That comment almost seemed, rational insightful and kind.
It would really bum me out if it turns out you’re not the deranged, dirty-minded pretentious prick you make yourself out to be.
Not to burst everyones bubble but I’m not sure that Samuel took that photo with the outdoor in the corner. I saw it on another surfing blog (can’t remember which one) last winter when LOST came out with their ripoff ad campaign. Samuel is late to the party with this one.
this whole thread has taken a path only Scott “please click through so we can try to save my job” Bass could love.
Ahhhh yes, I remember like it was yesterday when I realized that Surfline had a site for every spot from Santa Cruz to Half Moon Bay, telling every yokel how, where, and when to apply their lack of skill to said spots. I cried, screamed, waxed a window or two, and then shrugged my shoulders. The cat is out of the bag, and has long since run out of the yard. Respect is something Adam’s generation was weened on, and i remember him being heckled for paddling out at Sewer Peak as a kid in the 80’s. Can you imagine that now? He is one of Santa Cruz’s great ambassadors, and few get more respect than him. No one being pumped through a surf school (7 to a wave = $$$, thank you, next group) will every know about earning your way in to a line up. If you can surf, you will still get respect…but it sure was a shitload better when there were pecking orders. Personally I look at lineups on small days and shake my head at the chaos, but at least I can look back and laugh at how good we had it, but we barely realized it then.
For all this whinging you’d think there were no open waves left in the world. If you’re tired of SD or SC crowds, move. I hear Hawaii is a great place for kooky transplants to live. Better yet, try someplace original like NZ or the mid north coast of NSW. Maybe someplace along the Garden Route in the RSA. If it’s too much hassle to pick up and go, you don’t deserve empty waves anyway.
Stu is right..this has become way too insightful, and has veered off course from what we expect to find when peeking in this particular toilet. Where the hell have the conversations about dejaculation and Jihad Khodor’s bipedal hooves gone? Somewhere Brad Melekian is shedding a tear and thinking up a new ‘Remember When’ story. Sam George, the Pompous Ass is clearing his throat and looking around to see if everyone is hanging on his every word because he’s about to say something very profound and deep. A Surfer Magazine group hug Forum is about to break out. All this flashbacking is making me want to watch an old TR flick, and do a roll call of guys who used to be heavy lineup fixtures, but have now melted back into the shadows. They are missed, even if they did beat the crap out of me as a kid. It made me a better man. I logged on to laugh and be appalled by the brazen filth and degredation usually found here. Hey Lewis! Do your job and entertain us. What the hell else do you have to do? You’re a fired blogger for crap sake! Get busy.
hey peter perfect…thanks for the tip!
REGARDING SURF SCHOOLS: MYLES IS TOTALLY ON SPOT THERE, MOST NEWBIES TAKE A FEW LESSONS AND THEN BECOME SPEEDBUMPS AND OBSTACLES FOR ME ALL SUMMER LONG. ONE OF MY GOOD FRIENDS OWNS AND RUNS A POPULAR LA SURF SCHOOL AND IRONICALLY, HE’S ONE OF THE BIGGER SNAKES I KNOW. UNFORTUNATELY I DON’T THINK HE’S INSTILLING THE VIRTUES OF THE BOOK RIGHTS AND LEFTS INTO THE MINDS OF HIS CUSTOMERS.
Let’s not get crazy. The Hobgoblins have a camp that teaches both surfing and the Good Book. How can that be bad? The water will be so much cooler with more kooky thumpers in it, right?
I am a little kooky Stu but I don’t feel that I am a kook.
I thought we had a truce?
P.S. Just watched Joe Biden speaking on the Today Show. He called Matt Lauer Sam by mistake. This guy makes Dan Quayle look like fricken Einstein.
Did you prefer Cheney Mark? Or how about your wonderfully eloquent President Bush? ……you are a kook.
funny you assumed I was talking about you. I know a ton of kooky folks who have moved to Hawaii.
Biden’s a piece of work for sure, but I can only imagine what would be coming out of Palin’s mouth at this point. Neither, however, make Quayle look like Einstein.
I actually agree with Stu. Everyone that whines about crowds in surfing and other relatively minor irritations that Americans complain about should get airmailed to Mexico City.
We are LUCKY to have discovered the wonders of surfing. Some would say BLESSED. Take a deep breath and look around at what you have. Not what you used to have or what you lost. If you hate where you are then change it up.
Be the first one out at dawn if you want waves to yourself. It works in Hawaii. Go out when it is BIG and kind of warbly. Do that on the North Shore and you WILL be crying but it won’t be about the crowds.Take a roadie up to Oregon. It worked for Blashemy Rottgut.
P.S. Santa Cruz can be a hostile surfing scene but that is because it is an incredibly beautiful place with some of the best waves anywhere. I tend to agree with Fred Van Dyke when he said that after all his years in Hawaii he still feels that his most special experiences in surfing were in Santa Cruz. I, however, never had a seal pop up and start talking to me as I cruised down through the Indicator on an 8 footer.
I was simply stating that Biden makes me nervous. I would not be comfortable with him as my president.
Hey Stu. You KNOW you were referring to me! Be a man and admit when you give someone some shit. Frickin puss.
P.S. Santa Cruz also has great fishing and golf.
I was indeed, but it’s funny you assumed the same as well.
DRILL BABY, DRILL!
You know as crowded as the lineups get these days if you really are a “local” then you know that wave better than all the randoms do, and so it should be easy for you to catch more waves. If you are close nit with the people that are “locals” then you work together to keep randoms off the peak, a good example of this is a good day at deadmans with 50 guys out, I saw the same fifteen guys catch most of the waves. I think its when we dont work together that shit falls apart. Generally if someone cant catch any waves they are probably gonna surf somewhere else or just bob around the inside for scraps. Im not saying dont share or let people with etiquete work there way to getting waves just dont make it easy. At the same time some not as good spots have been givin up on and thats where you find the sup, begginers and retro weekend warriors surfing and that seems fine by me. I moved around allot growing up so i know all too well about being new in a lineup and it seems like the only way to make it is to show respect and eventually it will come back to you, well that or if you can kick everyones ass but I havnt seen anyone pull that off yet. I do miss the unstable ice head mokes and grumpy guys that used to surf my hometown as nervewracking as they can be they kept the spots devoid of crowds and now they are all in one way or another gone.
Erik, the “reminiscent generation” is the current cultureless generation and their addiction to fashion. Retro boards suck, that’s why we moved on and to see kids today proud of candy boards that work poorly, intentionally riding equipment that hinders their surfing is Unbelievable. Next, the 80’s will be revisted by posers who can’t imagine what their generations signature should be. What will follow, another visit by Seattle Grunge?
Function has been replaced by fashion for a generation asleep at the wheel and who can only focus on the rear view mirror.
Dear ‘Reminiscent’ Generation,
I hope this letter finds you all doing well. I know you didn’t ask for it, but I feel the need to give you some advice.
Now, I have no idea how old you are, but I’ll go ahead and assume you are just sprouting your first pubes and coping with the hope that, at any moment, your testicles will find their way into that shriveled sack beneath your phallus. I remember being thirteen and thinking how stupid older people were. And then you hear us ‘old fogies’ go ahead and rip you a new asshole regarding your pimping and poaching of the discarded failures of ‘the old ones’. You deserve to be pissed off. You really do.
But know this: We’re right. You’ll look back on these days, years from now and think “What in the fuck was I doing?” You’ll be embarrassed, and feel remorse for the decisions you are currently making.
If you were smart, you’d change for the better. But you’re not. You’ve been gilled by the packaged surf culture and think no one rocks harder than you on a retro bonzer.
So best of luck son. Remember to wear a condom and never drive drunk. I wish you the best, but keep in mind that if you don’t change your attitude some, the chances are pretty good that you’ll be taking my order at In n’ Out Burger 8 years from now.
Godspeed young ones,
Blasphemy Rottmouth
Additionally, Rodrigo Dornelles surfs like he replaced his arms with two lengths of garden hose filled with melted lead.
I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN, SOMETIMES I KINDA MISS THE ICE HEAD MOKES TOO…
I WAS REMINDED OF THE THEIR INHERENT SKETCHINESS AND SKEWED VIEW OF THE WORLD WHEN, OUT SURFING LAST WEEK, I OVERHEARD A THUG KID WITH A WARRANT OUT FOR BREAKING PROBATION SAY; ‘THE WAVES SUCK IN JAIL.’
Thanks for the eventual explanation, Mike.
You are wrong to assume me in the retro group, though.
yeah,
there’s only one thing left to say:
“Fuck all the Locals”
that’s what I’ve been doing all da time…
and get over it and fuck them again…
hang loose
Santa Cruz has always been a crowded surf city of the north. In 1973 I would surf Pleasure point every morning with lots of “Vals” showing up. I would stay all summer at my aunts house on Floral Drive. I came from the south; Santa Ana rivermouth/Huntington/Surfside. I got some great Fullers and Ano; uncrowded too. I would latter surf other gems like Point Magu, Channel Islands, Ranch, and Point Loma. They are still there and yes there can be a crowd, but many times you can get great surf by yourself or with a few friends; especially on large swells. I used to be less crowded, before all the state of the art surf forcasting. It was better learning the swell and direction and predicting the spot to go to. I’m a bit old. I surfed with young ripping Kevin Reed at 8-10 Pleasure, Allen Sarlow at cojo and blades, as well as Kim Mearig and Al Merrick, even Tom Curren was envious of a friend and I at the El Capitan store during a large southwest. The point is; it used to be less crowded but you can still get uncrowded perfection if you know how to find it.
Oh Encinitas- what a perfect place. Thank you for the post you put up.. where particularly within Encinitas are you located? I am just down El Camino and Encinitas Blvd.