Category Archives: Photos

PHOTO DISPATCH: REPO OUT WEST

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Enough with the fuckin’ words. Really, people! The world tour’s rigged, it’s not rigged, I’m over surfing, I’m stoked again, Jesse Ventura is a kook, Jesse Ventura is a hero, blah blah BLAH.

We’ve probably written the equivalent of 5000 tweets this week on PostSurf.  We’re scaring the children - they think in single sentences.  Verbosity is overkill. Words are so 2004.

Here’s some photos. Repo out west, where the wild things are.

(Click on images for high res, and please leave a message after the beep.)

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julian wilson. photo: reposar yes, please. photo: reposar trust in your fins.  photo: reposar

gaper. photo: reposar again, yes. photo: reposar ry craike. photo: reposar

Who is JOB?

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What does it mean to be a professional surfer in 2009?  Unless you’re in the Top 16, being a success comes down to media coverage.  Way back in the 20th Century, media coverage meant surf magazines and films.

Of course, the internet has changed all that… although it’s taking the surf industry a while to figure out how to leverage Web 2.0.

Some learn faster than others: Jaime O’Brien has been making his own films for years, and now he’s embracing social and viral marketing, as evidenced by his obsessive, deranged updates on Twitter.

It’s interesting to note the gap between how Jaime is now representing himself on Twitter and how the magazines have portrayed him.  It appears that he’s much weirder and funnier than we were led to believe.

In fact, after scanning Jaime’s Twitter feed, I think he’d fit right in commenting on PostSurf.  Judging by the clip below, it sounds like Jaime is definitely following PostSurf, and that he understands surf media is inevitably changing.

But I can’t tell if JOB’s a fan of PostSurf, or simply another sensitive pro waiting for their chance to crack me.  In fact, I can’t tell shit from this clip.  Can someone please translate for me?  Did David Lynch direct this? I kept expecting the midget from Twin Peaks to come out and start speaking backwards.

Here are some of Jaime’s recent tweets. Better or worse than a “Jaime O on the Hotseat!” feature?

JOB on his Bali Trip:

Back on Bali. Speeding my scooter through traff. Looking for a very particular noodle shop that serves breast milk.

Gettin out of dat club. The only bad thing about Bali is Europeans. The only bad thing about Europe is Europeans and no waves and shit food.

…and end at a tantric sex show feat. monkeys. I heard about it from my cabbie last night. He said they play “Fields of Gold” throughout.

Will you stay with me, will you be my love among the fields of barley… I fucken hate hate HATE STING. I bet he SUPs in lakes.

…Outside rented villa watching a monkey masturbate a sleeping German. Germ prob thinks it’s a little boy.

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JOB on Class:

Yes, there are classes in the world and yes, I now belong to the upper.

Fucken identity theft is a crime against the rich.

At least I have people to sort this shit out for me. I guess identity theft is a crime against those who work for the rich.

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JOB on JOB:

Is “too arrogant” such a thing?

Editing vid of last few days magic sessions. I love looking at myself in the barrel. I love how massive my dick is. Cocky? Maybe. True? Yes.

If you rule, like me, you don’t separate “arrogant” and “confident.” You just go about ruling.

taking my stitches out. over them. I am beautiful in every single way.

Backside barrel riding is an art that few attempt, fewer master and none do better than me.

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HOT/NOT with JOB:

The ASP should start a midget world dream tour for surfers under 5′6. one stop could be my bathtub. I’d splash some barrels for them.

Did John Lennon deserve to get shot? definitely. Die? probably.

Greg Noll is a hero.

Why did shit Mormons ever come to Hawaii? Aside from having multi wives, their deal is hammered. I can’t think of a less cool religion.

People who insist on eating organic are as bad as people who get small, hip tattoos. Like anchors or stars.

Transvestites should dress in formal evening wear always. Like fucken gowns. Even at Foodland.

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Thanks to Jason Reposar for the photos.

Photo Dispatch: Reposar

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Dave Rastovich doesn’t speak on Tuesdays.  On Saturdays I’m often hungover or drunk or incapable of original thought. So let’s focus on images instead of words.

Shooter Jason Reposar generously sent in these images of Nusa Tengarra for PostSurf use.

Check the sequence of Rob Machado: a top-shelf moment from a broken utopia.

Rob seems to be going the Michael Jackson route as he ages - turning into an exaggerated caricature of himself.  The afro gets bigger and the lines get cleaner as Rob distills  the escence of his personal brand into a 151-proof spirit.

3 Shot Saturday: Lefts

I’d like to start featuring photos instead of words on Saturdays.  The concept is simple: you, the reader, submit 3 shots on one topic.

For now I’ll get the ball rolling with Lefts.  Please send photos you’d like me to post in coming weeks.

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Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Retro? Primo.

No, I’m not on the Gold Coast - I’m sitting out this particular bro-down.  Why?  A) The economy. B) I’m mostly hated and I mostly hate bro-ing down.  C) There’s more to life than the tour. D)  All of the above.

Brad Gerlach Photo: Lewis Samuels

Brad Gerlach Photo: Lewis Samuels

Bizarrely, the bro-down came to me yesterday, in the form of Brad Gerlach’s Primo Beer Tour.  I guess Primo stopped bottling back in ‘86, around the time Gerr won the Stubbies Pro.  But retro is so hot right now, so Primo is back, and Gerlach is back with it, touring the coast in a motor home, sleeping with a stuffed monkey, giving away cases of beer to the unsung heroes of surfing - Glassers, sanders, ding-repairers… the under-appreciated.

Most of the glassing up here happens in Santa Cruz, so Brad gave me call  and asked where they should go.  Never one to turn down free beer, I took Brad on a tangential side-tour of our local Norcal Retro scene.  We brought a case of Primo to the laconic crew at Mollusk, allowing me to make karmic amends for writing The 40-year-old Barrel Virgin.  Then we stopped by Danny Hess’s shaping room.  Danny makes 5 beautiful airplane-wing, chambered wood boards a week. He’s dedicated his life to hand-crafting gems for discerning surfers.  I keep telling Danny that as soon as he has kids and the bills start piling up, he’ll sell-out out and move operations to China. Malnourished children will hand-craft thousands of “his” magic boards, maximizing profit.  This concept does not amuse Danny.

After a lifetime spent around surfing, it was fascinating to see how genuinely stoked Brad remains to talk story in a shaping room, beer in hand.

All photos: Lewis Samuels