May
16

Enough with the fuckin’ words. Really, people! The world tour’s rigged, it’s not rigged, I’m over surfing, I’m stoked again, Jesse Ventura is a kook, Jesse Ventura is a hero, blah blah BLAH.
We’ve probably written the equivalent of 5000 tweets this week on PostSurf. We’re scaring the children - they think in single sentences. Verbosity is overkill. Words are so 2004.
Here’s some photos. Repo out west, where the wild things are.
(Click on images for high res, and please leave a message after the beep.)



May
09

Dave Rastovich doesn’t speak on Tuesdays. On Saturdays I’m often hungover or drunk or incapable of original thought. So let’s focus on images instead of words.
Shooter Jason Reposar generously sent in these images of Nusa Tengarra for PostSurf use.
Check the sequence of Rob Machado: a top-shelf moment from a broken utopia.
Rob seems to be going the Michael Jackson route as he ages - turning into an exaggerated caricature of himself. The afro gets bigger and the lines get cleaner as Rob distills the escence of his personal brand into a 151-proof spirit.
Apr
11
I’d like to start featuring photos instead of words on Saturdays. The concept is simple: you, the reader, submit 3 shots on one topic.
For now I’ll get the ball rolling with Lefts. Please send photos you’d like me to post in coming weeks.

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels

Photo: Lewis Samuels
Mar
03
No, I’m not on the Gold Coast - I’m sitting out this particular bro-down. Why? A) The economy. B) I’m mostly hated and I mostly hate bro-ing down. C) There’s more to life than the tour. D) All of the above.

Brad Gerlach Photo: Lewis Samuels
Bizarrely, the bro-down came to me yesterday, in the form of Brad Gerlach’s Primo Beer Tour. I guess Primo stopped bottling back in ‘86, around the time Gerr won the Stubbies Pro. But retro is so hot right now, so Primo is back, and Gerlach is back with it, touring the coast in a motor home, sleeping with a stuffed monkey, giving away cases of beer to the unsung heroes of surfing - Glassers, sanders, ding-repairers… the under-appreciated.
Most of the glassing up here happens in Santa Cruz, so Brad gave me call and asked where they should go. Never one to turn down free beer, I took Brad on a tangential side-tour of our local Norcal Retro scene. We brought a case of Primo to the laconic crew at Mollusk, allowing me to make karmic amends for writing The 40-year-old Barrel Virgin. Then we stopped by Danny Hess’s shaping room. Danny makes 5 beautiful airplane-wing, chambered wood boards a week. He’s dedicated his life to hand-crafting gems for discerning surfers. I keep telling Danny that as soon as he has kids and the bills start piling up, he’ll sell-out out and move operations to China. Malnourished children will hand-craft thousands of “his” magic boards, maximizing profit. This concept does not amuse Danny.
After a lifetime spent around surfing, it was fascinating to see how genuinely stoked Brad remains to talk story in a shaping room, beer in hand.
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Gerbie gets a hand plane.
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Hess Sticks.
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Hess hand planes.
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Hess production.
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Hess shows the foil on Gerbie's hand plane.
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Brad Gerlach.
All photos: Lewis Samuels