I thought I'd close the loop with the final chapter of my revisit of Shards Still Falling, an article I wrote back in '03. (Part One Here and Part Two Here.) It would be nice if I could spend my time researching in-depth, introspective pieces with gargantuan word-counts, like this one clumsily attempts to be. [...]
Unfiltered Thoughts on Surf Culture
Tag Archives: terrorist
This article is a reprint from 2003. I had more time on my hands then. Time enough to spend a few months a year in Indo, time enough to write long, sprawling, vaguely earnest articles about things I cared about. I had more time than money - especially since no one wanted to pay me [...]
Now that I'm an "authority on surfing" I get letters from groms who are trying to decipher what surfing is all about. Here's another letter from little Charlie D, an inquisitive Grom from the OC who's just trying to figure out "how 2b COOL."
R comedians TERRORISTS? My Dad has been drinkin alot an watchin his [...]